#Flirc vs argon neo manual#
#Flirc vs argon neo full#

1.5 to 2 meters, but they are bearable in comparison to those in other countries (edit: at least for myself, since my job isn't one of the cut-off lines of work).Īaaanyway … coming back to topic, I surprisingly got around to setup my Pi 4 over the last weekend. There are moderate measures against the pandemic in place, like having to wear masks when shopping, or keeping your distance of approx.

So the real number is probably somewhere between 2100 and I'm well, thanks, and you? Germany seems to be one of the best places to be in these times if you believe the official numbers (which I do for the most part). I also did try 2147 but it was locked up after the first overclock test.

It's been 100% stable at 2.1GHz all weekend.

#Flirc vs argon neo full#

If the overclock is unstable I can usually get it to crash or lockup with Quake anywhere from 0 to 4 hours and if it makes the full 12 hour run I call it good. I started it before going to bed and it was still running fine when I got up so I let it go several more hours before calling it good. with no issues.įinally I did the Quake 3 stability test with max bots in spectator mode for 12 hours straight with no issues at all. I played a bunch of arcade games, Dragon's Lair, N64 games, etc. Compiling from source was the only other thing that would get the Argon case hot enough to kick the fan on. Then I went through and compiled from source Retroarch, Emulationstation, Advmame, Daphne, FBNeo, mame2003-plus and several other emulators with no crashes. I would give a bit of room around the case due to it getting really quite warm to hot once the fan starts revving up. I used the overclock link provided by At 2100 the temp topped out at 68C with CPU Burn in the Argon One. On a side note after a whole lot of testing I did get the Pi 4 stable at 2.1GHz with these settings: over_voltage=6 It's set through a script so maybe it can be modified if those values don't work for your setup. The fan is a user set percentage of the fans max RPM's based on 3 temps 55, 60 and 65. I was looking to change the times between a graceful shutdown and a hard shutdown but found a comment from a guy that wrote the company and they said they are hard coded values and can't be changed. You can also hold the button down for a graceful shutdown or longer to do a hard shutdown. It feels like a true mini console minus any branding. It's real clean powering up and shutting down. When done gaming just go through the RetroPie menu to shut it down and it will shut down properly and kill the power to the Pi just like a console. You press the power button to turn it on and you're right at the ES menu.

#Flirc vs argon neo manual#

After you load the script shown in the manual it integrates extremely well with RetroPie. The other really nice thing about the Argon One is the power button. I don't know if it was just an early run manufacturing variance or something but the Argon One for the Pi 3 case was a perfect fit. It was less than a one MM and it took only a small round file to do the trick. I chose to file the PCB just in case the removed finish wasn't enough to fit the board down flush and I had to file both the standoff and PCB. I could either file the finish off the standoffs or file the PCB. The standoffs that hold on the bottom plate were to close together. I had one minor issue with the Argon One/Pi 4 and that was with mounting the board inside the case. :) If I was going to mount a Pi in an upright cab I think I would go for one of those cheap acrylic cases/plates or make a cheap balsa wood plate or something. That would be a sin! ) They are well built with a nice finish and meant to be displayed. Hey Clyde, how's Germany holding up with the pandemic and all? That's a good point the orientation might facilitate your build but those Argon cases aren't meant to be hidden away in cabinets.